How to convert 100 HEIC photos to JPG — free, no upload

Published April 20, 2026

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You have a trip’s worth of iPhone photos to share with someone on Windows, a folder of HEIC camera captures that your photo-editing software refuses to open, or a year of receipts and product shots that need to be JPG for archival. Uploading 100 files to a free converter is slow and privacy-hostile. This guide covers the browser-based batch workflow that keeps everything on your device, preserves EXIF, and processes 100 files in ~3 minutes on a modern laptop.

Why HEIC → JPG is the everyday need

iOS has saved photos as HEIC by default since 2017. Mac Preview, iOS Photos, and newer Windows versions (with the HEVC Extension) open HEIC fine. Many other tools — older Windows, Linux, most web-upload forms, many photo editors, almost every email client older than 3 years — reject HEIC silently or show a thumbnail-only preview. Converting to JPG sidesteps every compatibility gap at the cost of slightly larger files.

The in-browser batch workflow (no upload)

Our HEIC to JPG tool runs wasm HEIC decoding entirely in your browser tab. Nothing uploads; nothing leaves your device. The process for 100 files:

1. Select all HEIC files in one action. Drag-and-drop a folder, or click “Select files” and multi-select with Shift/Cmd. The tool accepts up to a few hundred files per batch depending on average file size.
2. Pick output quality. Default (quality 85) matches JPG’s widely-accepted sweet spot and trims ~10% off the raw decoded size. Quality 95 is nearly lossless; quality 75 saves ~40% at a slight cost in fine detail.
3. Start the conversion. The tool iterates files one-by-one, keeping RAM usage bounded. Progress bar shows current file and batch total.
4. Download the ZIP. All converted JPGs are bundled into a single ZIP so you don’t have to accept 100 separate download prompts.

Typical throughput on a 2023 laptop: ~2–3 seconds per 3 MB HEIC file → 100 files finish in 3–5 minutes. Slower for 48 MP / ProRAW captures (larger source pixels to decode and re-encode).

EXIF and metadata preservation

EXIF metadata — camera model, lens, capture date, GPS coordinates — is preserved by default. The tool copies the relevant EXIF tags from the HEIC file into the output JPG’s metadata segment. If you’re sharing photos publicly and want to strip GPS coordinates, tick the “Strip GPS” option before conversion; the rest of EXIF (capture date, camera) is retained for sorting and library import.

Note: HEIC-specific metadata (depth maps, per-frame exposure for Live Photos, burst sequences) cannot be preserved in JPG — JPG has no corresponding format. The primary frame is converted; the auxiliary data is dropped.

Getting HEIC files off your iPhone first

The HEIC source files need to reach your laptop before the tool can work on them. Three paths:

AirDrop (Mac only). Select all photos in iOS Photos, Share → AirDrop to your Mac. iOS will ask whether to send as HEIC or convert to JPG; pick HEIC if you want the original quality (the browser tool re-encodes at your chosen quality; double-converting JPG loses detail).

iCloud Photos web (all platforms). Open icloud.com/photos in a browser on the target machine, sign in, select the photos, click Download. Depending on your Mac system setting (“Download and keep originals” vs “Optimise”), iCloud will hand you either HEIC originals or auto-converted JPG.

USB cable (Windows most reliable). Connect iPhone to PC with a USB-C or Lightning cable, trust the computer, open the DCIM folder in File Explorer. iPhone presents the HEIC files directly. Copy them to a local folder and drag that folder into the browser tool.

When to use quality 95 vs 85 vs 75

Quality 95 (default for archival). Use for family photos, portfolio work, or anything you might print. Output file is ~1.3× quality-85 size; visual difference vs lossless is imperceptible on any screen.

Quality 85 (default for sharing). The long-standing web sweet spot. Halves the file size vs quality 95 with no visible difference for on-screen viewing.

Quality 75 (default for email / upload form constraints). Use when the receiving system has a size cap (email attachment limit, web form 2 MB field). File size drops ~40% vs quality 85; you’ll see very subtle loss on detail-rich areas at screen-filling zoom.

Troubleshooting

“Browser ran out of memory” after ~40 files. Close other tabs, reload the converter, re-run in smaller batches (50 at a time). Browser tabs have a heap ceiling; running multiple high-memory tabs cuts into the converter’s budget.

“Thumbnail preview shows but conversion fails” on some files. Usually these are Live Photos where the primary frame is present but the depth/auxiliary data is malformed. Re-export from iOS Photos as “Keep Original” and retry.

Files finished but EXIF is missing. Check that “Preserve EXIF” is ticked. Some EXIF segments are tool-specific; Photos app EXIF should round-trip cleanly, but third-party camera EXIF occasionally drops.

When to convert to PDF instead

If the files are receipts, contracts, or any document you’ll need to search text in later, convert to PDF instead of JPG: see our PDF vs HEIC for document archival guide. For the conversion step, use images to PDF after the HEIC→JPG step.

Related tools

• HEIC to JPG — the primary conversion tool used in this guide.
• Images to PDF — combine the resulting JPGs into one PDF.
• Compress Image — reduce JPG size further with AI-tuned quality.
• Resize Image — match exact pixel dimensions for an upload form.

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